The Problem With Eating Out

One of the serious downsides to being a professional chef is that is hard to eat out and enjoy yourself.

Here are the kinds of places I like to eat out in when I have a chance:

1. Similar restaurants to the one I work in.

While I tend to spend the meal comparing the meal, analyzing the meal and trying to find inspiration for a new dish I could run, I do enjoy eating in places that are within the same genre/sphere as the restaurant I currently work in. Some of these may be slightly better, some not as good -- but all within the range. Examples of these kinds of places include any of the Max's restaurants, Capital Grille, Legal Seafood, etc. The problem, of course, is that these places are expensive. Without going crazy, you are talking about $50-60 per person for dinner. To be honest, there aren't a ton of times on my budget that I can eat out like that if I am paying.

2. Better restaurants than the one I work in.

I also enjoy eating in really interesting restaurants that are better than the restaurant I work in. The list of these kinds of restaurants could be long... On20, Schoolhouse Grill, Per Se, and of dozens of NYC restaurants, etc. I love high-end, fine dining, serious food. But most of these places have a starting price point of about $100 (including drinks, tax, tip, etc) and can go (way) up from there. So just from a pure enjoyment (and inspiration) perspective, these are the places I love to eat -- but realistically cannot do so more than once or twice a year.

3. Totally different restaurants than the one I work in.

I definitely enjoy places that are totally different in terms of food, flavors, style, etc. For this reason, I tend to eat ethnic food out a lot. The restaurant I am in is solidly "New American" with some continental and Latin American influences. So I love to eat Asian food, for example, when I go out. Luckily this is a broad category that includes tons of options at all different price points: Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, Korean, Indian... I love them all, from cheap take-out to fine dining. Other authentic ethnic foods I love include Spanish, Mexican and other South American. Also on this list? Delis, BBQ joints, diners, drive-ins, dives, pubs, etc. So this is a pretty broad category and when I eat out, 90% of the time it is in these kinds of places.

What kinds of restaurants do I not enjoy eating in...

Any kind of "American"/"New American" or similar type place that is not as good as the restaurant I work in. This includes all casual chains (Fridays, Chilis, Tuesdays, Olive Garden, Bertuccis, etc etc etc). Every time I eat at these places I leave disappointed and like I have been ripped off. Also on this list are your average local "family restaurants". Same deal. But of course, these are the kinds of places most people eat in often...

So... most of the places people out out I can't really stand. And most of the ones I enjoy eating out in I cannot really afford very often. So anyone up for some sushi?

Excellence is in the Details

I am spending a month up in Massachusetts, training as a sous chef with a very successful, growing, upscale restaurant group. Once my training is done, I will be working in CT.

While I am learning lots of things, one of the take-aways for me so far is HOW IMPORTANT SMALL DETAILS ARE in the end results of dish. And, how one of the essential roles of a chef leading a kitchen is to make sure those small details are being paid attention to.

From the quality of raw ingredients, to how they are stored (and for how long), to things like basic knife cuts, seasoning appropriately, proper butchering/fileting... all of these make a tremendous difference in the end product. And then, details in execution matter just as much... a hot enough (but not too hot!) saute pan, sweating the garlic, but not letting it brown in a saute dish, the proper seasoning at the right time on the steak, letting french fries fry just the right amount of time, not holding your baked potatoes too long... the list could go on and on.

But the lesson is simple: excellence is the result of lots of small details done properly.

The same is true for the home cook. I think one of the reasons home cooks don't get the results they wished is that they don't pay enough attention to details.

Wash your greens well so that there is no grittiness in your salad. Cut your vegetables uniformly so they cook evenly. Pre-heat your oven fully. Let your fat get to the right temperature in the pan before adding the food. Let your meats rest before carving. Season, taste and season again.

This kind of attention to detail is what differentiates great chefs (and home cooks) from merely competent ones. It is also what makes cooking fun!

Labor Day Menu

(download)

The restaurant is closed Monday for Labor Day, which provides me a nice extra day off this week. I am having some friends over for Labor Day. We have been trying to connect for a few weeks, but schedules are tough --- so this works out well. It is fun to hang out with this couple, because they enjoy good food and are always willing to try new and experimental stuff. I know that if something doesn't work out well, we can just order pizza and they would still be happy.

So here is what I am planning for the meal... I want to keep it simple to execute but full of bold, fun and seasonal flavors!

APPETIZERS:

A selection of cheese, fruit, crackers, etc.

ENTREE:

Peach-infused Sweet Tea Brined Double-Cut Pork Chops w/Grainy Mustard & Peach-Mango Relish, served with lightly creamed local bi-color corn (jalapeno, bacon and red bell pepper) and a 4-color (Red, Yellow, Orange & Green) Heirloom Tomato & Maplebrook Farms Mozzarella Salad with cracked pepper, sea salt, Bergamont-infused EVOO & 18-year Aged Balsamic Vinegar.

DESSERT:

Cucumber & Basil Sorbets with Tomato-Peach-Corn Compote & Vanilla-infused Balsamic Vinegar

You will note that I am doing something that I would (almost) never do on a restaurant menu or in other circumstances... I am repeating ingredients ingredients from the main course in the dessert (in this case, the tomatoes, peaches and corn as well as the balsamic vinegar). I am doing this for three reasons. First, I really want to highlight the seasonal ingredients and early September in Connecticut is pretty prime time for tomatoes, corn and peaches. Second, I think it is fun and a bit whimsical and also demonstrates the versatility of these ingredients in contexts we don't normally think of. Peaches in a savory context, tomatoes and corn and balsamic (as well as cucumber and basil) in a dessert. And third, there is a practical and economic consideration -- once I was buying these ingredients, using them more than once just made sense.

I will take some pictures and let you know how it all turns out --- and if we had to order pizza!

Where I'm at as a chef...

Cooking is a reflection of self in many ways. When I cook, I cook from my heart and soul.

And like life, I go through seasons with my cooking in terms of style, focus, perspective, etc. Sometimes it is about experimentation and pushing the envelope, sometimes my cooking is intensely ingredient driven or influenced by a particular method, region, flavor, etc.

So where am I at these days?

I am focused, for this season, on mastering fundamentals.

Method. Flavor. Seasoning. Doneness. Balance. Knife cuts. Etc.

I am not focused on blowing people away with flavor or creativity. Right now it is not all about obscure and expensive ingredients or super-foods or cutting-edge methods.

I have enjoyed those seasons -- and still can blow you away if I want to.

But these days I find I am drawn to perfecting basic method, getting seasoning (salt, pepper, etc) perfect, balance of flavors, perfect doneness, precise knife cuts.

I believe that to really excel in this industry, one must have the basics down cold. You never graduate from the fundamentals.

There will be time to experiment and invent down the line. Today, it is about perfection in the basic execution.

The One (or Two) Appliances I Take On Vacation...

I am leaving for a two week vacation out on Martha's Vineyard in a few days. I am beginning to pack and the question is always, what to bring from my kitchen...

The deal is this... my whole family will be there -- I think 16 people will be the most at one time -- and we stay together in a rental house. For the most part, we cook ourselves (I usually split duties with my oldest brother, who is an excellent cook in his own right). So the question becomes, what to bring?

Most of our meals are simple. Buy fresh produce from the local Farmer's Market or farm stand in the morning, fresh bread from the bakery, and fresh fish from the local market right on the docks. Pretty hard to screw that up.

But, as is typical in a rental house kitchen, there is not much to work with.

Some years I bring lots of equipment... my own pans, blender, portable range, pantry, knives, sous vide machine, gadgets, blender, etc.

This year, I am trying to pack lighter.

So what do I consider essential?

My knife kit is a given. Chef knife. Pairing knife. Boning knife. Filet knife. Veg peeler.

In terms of pantry items, I will bring several olive oils, vinegars and various salts. Fresh herbs are abundant, so that covers my needs there. And I bring a pepper mill -- but I keep one in my knife kit, so that is already covered.

But in terms of appliances -- you know, the kind you plug in -- I am limiting myself to two. I am also not bringing any pans this year --- I will work with what I find there. (Though it is possible that my giant paella pan, imported from Spain, may find its way into the car...)

So here are the two appliances I don't want to be without for two weeks:

(1) Cuisinart Mini-Prep Food Processor

(2) Vita Mix Pro Blender

Why these two? Mostly efficiency.

When it is hot, humid and I am on vacation, I don't want to spend a lot of time chopping garlic or shallots (for example). So the the mini-prep is great. I also like to serve grilled fish with simple cold sauces... emulsified dressings, ailolis, pestos, salsas, relishes, etc. Nothing is better than a good blender to prepare those easily and quickly. But I can also use the blender to make cold soups, basic doughs, smoothies, crush ice for drinks, etc etc --- it is the most multi-purpose appliance I have in my kitchen. In fact, it could probably do all the the things the mini-prep can do, but the mini-prep is so small and easy to use/clean, I figure why not bring it along.

WHAT DO YOU BRING FOR THE KITCHEN WHEN YOU TRAVEL?

Home Audition Video

Here is the HOME AUDITION VIDEO I submitted as part of my application to be on a new TV show on the Food Network focused on helping people in the food industry who are overweight lose weight and get healthy.

Now that everything is submitted, I just wait to hear from the producers one way or the other. I am not sure what the time frame is, but I assume I will know within the next few weeks.

Special thanks to my friends John & Daniel Fecteau for putting this video together!

Enjoy!

Audition Home Video for Culinary Weightloss Show from Ben Dubow on Vimeo.

Managing Mistakes

Today was my first day as opening/morning Kitchen Manager (KM, for short) at my new job, where I wasn't training or shadowing anyone.

I have worked a couple of KM shifts as the closer, but this was my first as the opener. Opening KM is responsible for lunch service, writing the lunch specials, making sure the line is all set, writing the prep lists for the day, and managing the daytime kitchen crew.

I knew I had a lot to do, so I planned to show up a bit early. Unfortunately, I managed to set-off the main office alarm system -- so instead of getting an early start, I got a late start.

Here are some of the issues I had to deal with as KM/chef today:

- Two employees left early due to sickness/injury, leaving us shorthanded.

- The catfish we ordered for today won't be in until tomorrow.

- Write specials that work for a 98 degree day!

- One prep cook telling me "that's not my job" when I asked him to do something.

- Another line cook being angry/frustrated at me because I was running behind in setting up the line.

In addition, there were probably dozens -- if not hundreds -- of small decisions I had to make throughout the day. But as a case study, I want to look at the case of the line cook who was getting pretty angry/frustrated.

Normally, the morning KM has most of this stuff done BEFORE the first line guy shows up; today, that didn't happen. So this line guy pretty much walked into my mess and had to work harder than he wanted to get everything going and working. He was pissed and angry --- at me. And we were the only two working the hot line for lunch.

So what did I do?

After we got through the first 90 minute push of lunch (in which I was weeded and he helped pull me out -- at lunch, I cover two stations and remember this is only Day 16 for me and I am still learning the stations!), I pulled him aside. I thanked him for really stepping up, I acknowledged that today's disorganization was my fault, and thanked him for his patience as I continued to learn. I also reaffirmed that I too -- like him -- normally am obsessed with running a good line and having all of our prep and mise en place done before we start service. (I didn't want him to think I was always this way.) And the last thing I did is I gave him a write-up... a positive write-up!

We use progressive discipline well at this restaurant and people get written up often. In theory, people can also get a write-up (or accommodation), but that doesn't happen as often as it should -- as a manager, it is easy to overlook when someone is doing their job well or even going above-and-beyond.

Today, this guy went above-and-beyond and he did so because I messed up. He even stayed an hour later to help finish prep.

When I gave him the write up to sign (so I could put it in his file), you could tell he was very happy and appreciative -- it changed the whole tone of the day and took what could have been a real negative and made it into a positive.

So what are the management take-aways?

(1) When issues arise, talk directly to people about them.

(2) When you are wrong or mess up as a manager, own it and apologize for it.

(3) Positive reinforcement goes a long way!

So those were some of my lessons for today... we will see what tomorrow brings!

My Audition & Screen Test

Those of you who follow my tweets and on facebook, you know that I was in New York City today to audition and screen test for a new culinary TV show that is being casted.

The show is not a reality TV show or competition show, but more of a documentary/story kind of show that is being slated for the Food Network. The show focuses on people in the culinary industry who are overweight and want to lose weight. The idea is that if you get on the show, you get to stay where you are (live at home, keep working, etc.) and you are assigned a celebrity trainer and nutritionist to work with you for 17 weeks. The show tracks you through the process -- and I am sure there are some twists thrown in along the way.

The idea is that when you are passionate about food and surrounded by it everyday, it is pretty hard to lose weight and stay healthy.

I think my filming today went really well and that I connected well with the casting producer. And they seemed to like my story (having been a pastor, career change, etc... but also having cooked and been in the food industry since I was 9 years old selling fruit salad at the local Farmer's Market in West Tisbury and flipping burgers at age 12 at The Galley).

But you never know what will happen... how many people are applying... what the producers are looking for in terms of type of person, gender, geography, etc. But I am excited about the possibility and hopeful that I will make it on the show.

Here is more information about the show (click here).

Of course, I will keep you posted...

Day 2 as Sous

Today I completed DAY TWO as SOUS CHEF at the new restaurant I am working at in downtown Hartford.

There is no way around it... starting a new job is exhausting. So much information to process, sort and remember. Every task is new. Just remembering where stuff is kept can be a challenge. So many names to remember too. Exhausting.

But also fun and challenging... the first two days have been very good.

I have been reflecting a lot about transitions in and out of jobs. How to do it well and ways in which we fail to do it well.

Here is some of what I am learning on that front...

1. LISTEN & LEARN FROM EVERYONE.

Literally, everyone. Dish washers, food runners, front of house, back of house... you name it. Listen, ask questions and be willing to learn from everyone.

2. STUDY THE CULTURE.

Every organization has a unique culture. You have to study and learn about that culture. Both the internal culture (the stuff that is unique to the organizational DNA) and the external cultures that have been imported to the organization. For example, at my last job the culture was very much formed around a corporate, growing, restaurant group. This was neither good nor bad, but it did define the DNA of the organization. My current restaurant is an independent, urban and established restaurant. Very different. In terms of external culture being imported, at my last job I was probably the oldest guy on the line and everyone was either anglo (white) or Latin American (for the most part). At my new job, I am younger than most of the guys I supervise and work with and the kitchen is dominantly African-American. Again, neither good nor bad... but it does change the culture.

3. WITHHOLD JUDGEMENT.

I hear lots of things about people. I listen to lots of people tell me all the things that need fixing. I listen to all of them... but withhold judgement. In other words, I can take in all the information, but ultimately I need to confirm these things (or debunk them) for myself.

4. TRUST YOUR SKILLS.

Starting a new job is intimidating. I don't know how they do things. But I do know how to cook, how to lead and how to manage people. These are skills that I have honed and developed for years. I need to trust them and use them. These last few days, I have been very thankful for my culinary school education and my basic kitchen/knife/cooking skills. You never get promoted beyond needing these in a kitchen.

5. BE A STUDENT.

While I trust my skills, I do not fall into the trap of believing I know the best way to do everything... I am still a student, open to learning from anyone.

6. UNDER PROMISE, OVER DELIVER.

I don't need to impress today. No need to over-state my abilities. Give myself space to grow into the job.

7. LOOK FOR EASY WINS.

That said, I am also looking for "easy high impact wins" -- places I can bring real value to the organization early.

8. ACCELERATE THE TRANSITION INTENTIONALLY.

I am being very intentional about learning, growing and developing into the job. For most new leadership/management jobs, it probably takes six months before you are really adding value to the organization; my goal is to accelerate that process and get there in three months.

Sous Vide BBQ Ribs

I am experimenting with doing BBQ ribs sous vide.

In theory, bbq ribs should be a perfect application for sous vide. Great BBQ is based on a "low and slow" cooking technique, which is what sous vide allows you to do very well.

So I bought a couple racks of baby back ribs and got to work. I split the racks in half so that they would fit in 1 gallon bags for vacuum packing. Before vac packing, I used a pairing knife to cut slits in the silver skin along the backs of the ribs. I then rubbed them generously with a classic spice rub (salt, sugar, cayenne, paprika, cumin, onion, garlic, ground oregano) and put them in the bag with about a half cup of Memphis-style BBQ sauce.

Once sealed, I dropped them in the sous vide bath at 143 degrees F for 24 hours.

I just pulled them out of the water. I opened one bag, just to taste. The other three I chilled down and refrigerated. I want to see how they hold up and whether I can re-heat them on a grill (or grill pan) later.

The texture of the ones I tried were perfect. The meat was tender and fall off the bone delicious, but the ribs also sliced perfectly -- with none of the meat falling off. The flavor was also very good.

The two things that were missing were smokiness and a little outside crust. I am hoping that 10 minutes on a grill to re-heat or finish them (or on a grill pan) will solve both those problems. I may also add a little liquid smoke to the mix next time.

The great thing was how easy this process was. The prep took less than 10 minutes and then i didn't have to do anything else until 24 hours later. Perfect for entertaining, as long as plan ahead. Also, if you can chill and re-heat effectively, this is great -- for catering, restaurant service or entertaining at home.

Next, I am going to try this with a pork shoulder for pulled pork...

The Inside Soup

food tips, musings & reflections